Norwegian Fjords Cruise: Complete Winter Guide

Embark with me aboard the MS Lofoten for a magical cruise along the Norwegian Fjords! For 6 days, I joined the Hurtigruten fleet for an unforgettable winter journey along the west coast of Norway, and it was an experience like no other. This trip taught me so much about myself and slow travel, and I am excited to share more in this article.

So here is a complete guide to cruising Norway, including which boat to choose, the best time to sail, what to pack and my 6-day itinerary, perfect for any time of the year.

From breathtaking landscapes to fishing villages and meeting new cultures, discovering Norway from this point of view is something you will never forget! Enjoy 🙂

My Norway experience:
Duration 6 Days
Dates visited November 12 - November 17
Season Winter

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Overview: a magical winter cruise

• Day 1 – Bodø
• Day 2 – Bodø to Lofoten Islands
• Day 3 – Lofoten Islands
• Day 4 – Lofoten Islands to Tromsø
• Day 5 – Tromsø to Honningsvåg
• Day 6 – Honningsvåg to Kirkenes

Notes – we started this cruise from Bodø as it was the most convenient place to reach by plane from Manchester, and we wanted to focus on the north. 

Norwegian fjords cruise – Map

Click on the top left of the map to display the list of stops and locations.

Words to know before you go

• Yes = ja
• No = nei
• Thank you = takk
• Please = vær så snill
• Excuse me = unnskyld meg 
• Hello = hallo
• Goodbye = ha det bra

Planning a city break in Bergen? Check out this article:
16 Best Things to Do in Bergen, Norway

Detailed itinerary: 6-day cruise in Norway

Please note that this Norwegian cruise is only a guide with recommendations. You are more than welcome to spend more days in one area or add other stops on your journey.

Looking for the best coat to keep you warm? Check out this article:
8 Best Ethical Coats for Iceland in Winter

Day 1 – Bodø

My first visit to Norway, and I could not be more excited!

We flew early in the morning from Manchester to Oslo and changed to Bodø. Everything was already covered with snow, and it was beautiful.

We arrived in Bodø (above the Arctic Circle) in the evening, and it was already dark. It was not snowing, but the wind was extremely strong and cold. We waited a while until we discovered our suitcase was not there but still in Oslo 😐 After filling out a few forms, we went to our first Airbnb, just a 15-minute walk from the airport.

I guess this day was not on our side! When we arrived at the guesthouse, one of the guests had locked the door from the inside, so we were stuck outside in the cold aha. 

After knocking for a few minutes and desperately trying to contact the host, the guest finally opened the door, and we headed straight to a store to buy and eat some food. 

Around 22:00, the airport contacted us to collect our suitcase, which was a relief, as we were taking the boat the next day. 

23:00, we could finally settle down and sleep! 

Notes – as we had some problems with our suitcase, we did not explore Bodø much that day but had the chance to wander the next. It was a charming city with a lovely harbour to stroll along.

First impression: I already loved the atmosphere of the country! The people were all so friendly and helpful. Plus, the houses were super cute, made of wood and in different colours. 

• Temperature: -7°c (but the wind made it worse)
• Sunrise: 09:00
• Sunset: 14:30

Top experiences in Bodø

Day 2 – Bodø to Lofoten Islands

We woke up early to get ready and wander around Bodø before starting our cruise. 

We first walked to the train station to put our suitcase in a locker (6 Nok) and headed to the harbour. We strolled around, took some photos and had a lovely lunch. 

By that time (early afternoon), the sun was starting to set, and the colours of the sky were incredible, contrasting the turquoise blue of the water. We had a coffee at En Kopp to warm up with a beautiful view. We then returned to the locker to get our suitcase, ready for our adventure. 

Notes – be careful, the floor is incredibly slippery. My partner Matt struggled, and I admit it was funny. It was like watching Bambi walk for the first time. But if you have mobility issues or want to be on the safe side, you can buy crampons to clip under your shoes.

Our boat finally arrived at the harbour, and we were ready to leave around 15:00. I was so excited. For this first journey, we were on the MS Polarlys from Hurtigruten, a big (and fancy) boat with different spaces and lounges to relax whilst enjoying the view. 

We stayed on the outside deck for the departure, and it was incredible. The sun was disappearing at the horizon, and the scenery was breathtaking, with cute villages and the surrounding mountains covered with snow.

Notes – as you can imagine, it was cold outside and extremely windy, so be prepared.

After enjoying the view, we went inside to the bar to have a drink and relax. I was amazed by the hospitality of the Norwegian – always smiling and ready to help 🙂 

We arrived in Svolvær, the capital of the Lofoten Islands, around 21:00, and the cold was not too bad, but the road was super slippery. We headed to our Airbnb, a 15-minute walk away from the harbour, where we had a lovely cosy room in an old building. As we were tired, and it was dark, we went to sleep.

Day 3 – Lofoten Islands

We woke up early and got ready to explore Svolvær. Our host was very kind and agreed to keep our suitcase for the day, as our boat was arriving at 22:00.

We decided to wander around the city, and the scenery + colours were incredible. We walked over a bridge to reach Kuba Island, where we enjoyed a great view with a stunning reflection of the mountains in the sea. We explored the island for a bit and came back to the city centre to eat a pizza at Fellini Pizza – around 13 Nok for a calzone, which was very good.

We continued to stroll, but the sun started to set very quickly. We then went to a lovely bar called Bacalao to relax and play cards with a beautiful view of the harbour. 

The Lofoten Islands are also a great Europe destination to visit in summer!

Top experiences in the Lofoten Islands

Notes – the temperature was not cold on that day, around 3°c. Plus, here are a few things I noticed: the locals love to knit, they all wear reflective wristbands, and there are hand sanitisers at every entrance (and that was before COVID!).

I enjoyed my day in this city. It was quiet but had something special. Next time, I would love to stay a bit longer and explore more of the islands.

We hopped on our boat around 22:00 and discovered our cabin, which would become our home for the next few nights. Our boat was the MS Lofoten, the oldest from the Hurtigruten fleet (1964). However, note that this boat is no longer available for cruises. It is now a ship used for teaching, which is sad as it was a beautiful, small but traditional vessel which felt more intimate. Plus, as there were fewer people on board, it was easier to talk and connect. 

Our cabin, 105, was on the lower deck. We had two single beds, a sink and space for our suitcase and bags – a small but cosy room (also the cheapest as prices go high very quickly!).

Once settled in our cabin, we headed to the outside area at the back and enjoyed a traditional drink called Trollknert. We were not exactly sure what it was, but it was good.

We savoured our drink whilst looking for the Northern Lights (I had never seen any before). We did not see any that night, but I was not losing hope for the rest of the trip. 

We then arrived at a very narrow and deep fjord called Trollfjorden. It was nighttime, but we could still see the mountains so close to us. It was impressive! 

We stayed awake on the outside deck until 01:30 to look for the lights, but still nothing. As it was late, we went to bed in our little cabin. I was afraid to be sick, but I felt ok the entire trip. However, I did not sleep well as the engine made a lot of noise, and we stopped several times at different ports. But that did not surprise me as I am a light sleeper. On the other hand, Matt enjoyed his night and was snoring – so I guess it will vary from one person to another! 

Day 4 – Lofoten Islands to Tromsø

We enjoyed our tasty breakfast in the morning with a fantastic sunrise. The buffet was varied, with lots of local food, which was delicious (and included in our room). We then got ready to spend the day outside.

Our first stop was Finnsnes at 11:00 for 30min, a small fishing town. The colours were gorgeous, it was so peaceful, and the reflection in the water was perfect.

We continued our way to Tromsø, one of the most beautiful places to visit in Norway, and I stayed outside most of the time to watch the scenery and sunset at 13:30. Matt was in the front lounge, relaxing and enjoying a hot chocolate. I met him at one point to warm up with a coffee when suddenly, the captain announced the possibility of seeing Orquas. I jumped outside, but unfortunately, we did not see any.

We arrived in Tromsø around 14:15. The weather was cloudy, and the temperature dropped quickly. We explored the city for the afternoon, enjoyed a mocha at Solid (we even sat outside with heaters) and went shopping to buy a few souvenirs (mugs and coasters). We returned to the boat around 17:30 to relax and nap, as I was tired from the night before. 

Tromsø was a charming city, busier than Svolvær, even a bit too touristy for me. But we still had a great time, and if you want, there are many activities you can do from there 🙂

Things to do & see in Tromsø

Here are some of the best things to do and see in Tromsø:

• Admire the Arctic Cathedral
• Look for the Northern Lights
• Take a reindeer or husky sleigh ride
• Go on a whale safari
• Ride the Fjellheisen cable car
• Explore Tromsø Ice Domes
• Go shopping on Storgata Street

Top experiences in Tromsø

We spent some time in the lounge and went on the outside deck at the end of the day to watch the Northern Lights. The sky was cloudy, but I was still hoping. We saw tiny ones at one point, but they were hiding behind the clouds, so we decided to go to bed. I slept better that night – the boat was quieter.

Day 5 – Tromsø to Honningsvåg

I woke up earlier that morning, as I wanted to enjoy it as much as possible, and the daylight was getting shorter (9:30 – 12:30). I had breakfast whilst watching the sunrise before spending time on the outside deck. 

We arrived in a small town called Havøysund around 08:45. The sun was still rising slowly, and the colours were gorgeous. As we headed towards the north, the temperature continued to drop. I still spent most of my time outside as I did not want to miss anything, and the scenery was too beautiful. 

We left the town at 09:15 in the direction of Honningsvåg. The journey there was my favourite – from the blue water to the pink sky and white mountains, it felt like a dream. I enjoyed a mocha in the front lounge before returning outside to watch some dolphins. 

We arrived in Honningsvåg at 11:15, and I was already in love with this town – my favourite from this cruise! The houses were all so cute, and it was incredibly peaceful. 

You can also enjoy a trip to the North Cape, which we did not do, but it sounded like a great experience. Instead, we spent some time wandering through the town and strolling along its harbour. 

Notes – I would recommend booking the North Cape excursion in advance with Hurtigruten if it is something you want to try. 

The sun sat quickly, and it felt incredible. We walked around for a while, shopped and ordered a pizza for lunch (about 100 Nok a margarita). We then returned to the boat to eat and relax in the lounge. We left Honningsvåg at 14:45 and continued our cruise to Kirkenes, our last stop.

Notes – on your way there, you will also encounter the lovely village of Kjøllefjord, where you can join an optional excursion to meet local Sámi, learn about their reindeer herding and listen to folk songs.

We fell asleep for two hours and woke up around 17:00 when suddenly, the captain informed us that it was possible to see the Northern Lights. We ran outside, and there they were, shining in front of us! 

They were small at first, but I decided to stay outside for a while. As time passed, they became more powerful, dancing above us – and it was magical! I could not believe what I was witnessing. It felt surreal. The boat was moving a lot, so it was challenging to take photos, but I still managed to take a few good shots. I stayed outside until 22:00, and they never stopped dancing. 

As the waves were getting stronger, we decided to go to sleep, but sadly, I did not sleep at all. The boat was moving too much that night, and I was very uncomfortable in our little cabin. On the other hand, Matt had a great night, which I will never understand aha! + Most people were sick and vomiting overboard.

At 05:00, I went to the lounge to relax before going back to bed.

Notes – the Northern Lights were incredible but slightly different from what I imagined. I always thought they were bright green lights, which is not fully accurate. The camera makes them green, but they look white to the naked eye, which was challenging to see when the sky was cloudy. But if they are strong enough, you will see them right away – and it is fantastic. 

Day 6 – Honningsvåg to Kirkenes

Our last day on this Norwegian fjord cruise! After a rough night, we woke up at 06:15 to shower, pack our suitcase and have breakfast. 

The time passed quickly, and we arrived in Kirkenes at 09:00 (15km from the Russian border). The temperature dropped again, around -12°c and the sea was frozen. It was also snowy and cloudy. 

Unfortunately, we did not have the time to explore the town as our plane was at 11:30. A bus was waiting for us outside (22 Nok) and took us to the airport, 20 minutes away. I was sad to say goodbye to our beautiful boat. 

We arrived at the smallest airport I had ever seen and took our first plane to Oslo. We changed in Copenhagen to finally reach Manchester, where our suitcase was NOT waiting for us, aha – it was still in Oslo…

We got back home at 23:00, and I was so tired. This trip was by far one of the best I had ever experienced. Travelling by boat was incredible and gave us a different perspective on the country. 

I would do it again, maybe in another season, to compare.

This trip taught me a lot about slow travel and simple things. We did not do much during the days, we were mostly sitting on the outside deck, watching the landscapes pass before our eyes or stopping at a harbour for 30min to 1h to wander around. It was easy, and it was great.

I felt so relaxed for the first time in a long time, enjoying the sunrise with my morning coffee, trying to see whales, writing my journal, watching the sunset and waiting for the Northern Lights. I savoured each of those moments.

I guess this is one thing I love the most about travelling, being able to observe the difference between before and after, reflecting on what I have learnt to come back better 💙

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Which boat & itinerary to choose

The boat and itinerary you choose will depend on your preferences, budget and preferred way of travelling. 

On this Norwegian Fjords cruise, we decided to go with Hurtigruten after hearing great reviews about them and loving their work towards sustainability (they just launched their first hybrid cruise ship).

Hurtigruten also proposes different types of ships and itineraries, and as I am not usually a cruise person, I wanted to find a small boat (which did not feel too touristy). That is why we decided to go with the MS Lofoten, the oldest and smallest ship in the fleet (no longer available – he retired). The boat was lovely, traditional and felt so intimate. We did not regret our choice! 

But again, it will depend on what you prefer. If you want more space with various lounges and additional amenities or something all-inclusive, then a larger boat will be more suitable. We went with the smallest one as we wanted something that felt private, and we noticed the difference when we did a few hours on the MS Polarlys. It felt more spacious and luxurious, but it was not our thing.

You will find all the Hurtigruten ships here.

Regarding the sailing route, we wanted to focus on the north and go through the Lofoten Islands, so we chose a cruising itinerary from Bodø to Kirkines for 5 days (we travelled for 6 days in total as we arrived in Bodø the day before). 

However, there are so many possibilities, and it will mainly depend on your budget and time. 

The good thing is that you can also tailor the route to you – and that is what we did. Hurtigruten offered a voyage from Svolvær to Kirkenes, but Svolvær was too difficult to reach by plane, so we opted to land in Bodø and start the cruise there. That is also why you will notice that we took a different boat from Bodø to Svolvær, the MS Polarlys (which suited our schedule better). Plus, it was only a short journey of a few hours – we did not sleep on this boat. 

You will find the sailing timetable here. All ships follow identical schedules and go through the same ports (but they will stop at different times depending on which way they go – northbound/southbound). So if you want, you can make up your own route and stay in one place for a bit longer. 

Let me know in the comments if you have any questions! I would be happy to help.

Need inspiration for your next city break? Check out this article:
10 Eco-Friendly & Fun Things to Do in Helsinki

What are the possible excursions?

You will spend most of your time on the boat but might want to explore once on land. Here are some optional excursions you can do with Hurtigruten (do not forget to book in advance):

• The North Cape: the northernmost point on the European continent, marked by the photogenic globe monument.

• Birdwatching Safari: visit one of the largest and most impressive bird cliffs on the Gjesværstappan islands.

• Sámi Culture: meet an indigenous Sámi family in their traditional tent to learn more about their lifestyle and culture.

• Snowmobile Tour: drive your snowmobile through gorgeous winter scenery, possibly under the Northern Lights.

• Fishing Village: visit two colourful fishing villages, whatever the time of year.

We did not do any on our Norwegian Fjords trip as we were on a tight budget. But we did not mind much and still had such a fantastic time!

We loved spending our days on the boat, exploring the fishing villages and relaxing in the lounge with a hot drink. I also spent time journalling, and it felt great. 

Fancy a weekend getaway in Bergen? Check out this article:
3 Magical Days in Bergen: Complete Itinerary

Best time to do a cruise in Norway

That is a challenging question! But I would answer: at any time of the year.

If you prefer to discover Norway during warmer and sunnier months, prioritise June, July and August. You will enjoy long days without getting too hot, making it perfect for outdoor activities. 

If you want to explore Norway under a beautiful white coat and experience the Arctic Circle at its best, head to the fjords in winter. We chose November as we wanted to discover the Arctic with some daylight. 

Note that the days become incredibly short in December and January, and the weather can be cloudier (something to keep in mind if you want to see the Northern Lights, as despite what you might think, it is best to see them in September or April when the weather is clear. Although it is darker in December and January).

On our trip in November, we only had a few hours of daylight to enjoy, but it was perfect! Weirdly, the sun never fully rose but was always low and soft in the sky, creating stunning colours. 

The cold was not too bad either! We had temperatures from 3°c to -15°c, but the wind on the boat made the situation a little worse. The essential is to arrive prepared. 

READ MORE: 10 Best Northern Lights Holiday Tours in Norway

Top Northern Lights Experiences

What to pack & wear for a winter cruise

As I mentioned earlier, the most important on a winter cruise along the Norwegian fjords is to arrive prepared so you can enjoy your trip without freezing. 

Here are some clothing items and gear you will need to pack to be comfortable on your trip to the Arctic: 

• Boots: You will need waterproof boots with good grip to keep your feet warm and dry during outdoor activities and when exploring the fishing villages. I wore my Sorel boots, and they were perfect. They are very comfortable, and my feet were never wet or cold.

• Winter thermal socks: Wearing quality socks is essential to keeping your feet warm. Mine were thick thermal socks that I used for this trip (and skiing in Lapland). They were not highly technical, but they did the job and were comfy.

• Coat: One of the most necessary elements for a winter gateway! Choosing a coat that is right for you and can adapt to the types of activities you want to do is essential. I wore a Fjällräven Nuuk parka, and once again, it was great. Buying a quality cold-weather jacket is expensive, but you will not regret it (I have owned mine for years, and I even wear it at home in the UK). This coat has kept me warm for all my winter trips.

• Base layers and second layers: These layers are crucial if you want to stay warm. The base layers are usually long-sleeved thermal t-shirts, and the second layers can be thin thermal sweaters or thick jumpers, depending on the temperature and how many layers you want to wear. They do not need to be fancy, but I recommend having several to switch over the week. I bought mine in Decathlon.

• Gloves and hats: Enjoying the cold weather on a boat in Norway without gloves or a hat sounds impossible (especially if you like taking photos)! As you might spend some time on the outside deck, you should not forget to protect your head and hands. I also recommend wearing waterproof gloves for extra protection and a padded hat. Again, I bought mine in Decathlon.

• Scarf: The scarf will depend on your preferences, as many people do not enjoy feeling something around their neck. But because the wind can be strong on the boat, I wore a Buff. It was one of my favourite items! The one I chose was lightweight, thermal and incredibly useful. Buff products are much easier to wear than long scarves and adapt to your activity level.

• Pants: The type of pants you wear will most likely depend on your activity and your preferences. Most of the time, I wore my jeans with tights underneath. Matt did the same (without pantyhose, aha), but he was always warm enough. However, for some places or activities like dog sledding, having windproof/waterproof pants will be essential.

Here are other items you might want to bring along:

• A camera
• Binoculars
• Spikes
• Gripes/crampons

Shop the editable travel packing list

Prepare for your perfect outdoor adventure and explore responsibly.

How to reduce your eco-impact on a cruise

The answer would be to avoid cruises altogether. Back when I went on this trip, I was unaware of the impact of tourist boats. It was only with time and education that I realised that cruises are environmental dinosaurs. Despite continuous improvements in the industry, most ships still have a large carbon footprint, pollute the sea and contribute directly to over-tourism. 

So what do you do if you care about the environment but are not ready to abandon cruises? Here are some tips:

• Look carefully at the company website and learn more about their work towards sustainability.

• Check out the Friends of the Earth website and their report cards that rank major operators against different environmental criteria.

• Consider a smaller cruise (fewer passengers, less busy destinations) – encouraging you to connect with local communities.

• Pack extra! (reduce waste & bring your own towels, food containers, reusable water bottles, etc).

• Make responsible food choices and eat at local restaurants or markets on land.

• Reduce your single-use plastic consumption and say no to plastic straws, cups and bottles (that is why mindful packing is essential!).

• Be careful with your energy and water usage (unplug your electricals, take shorter showers, reuse towels and bedsheets).

• Invest your money and time in local communities (swap organised tours for independent exploring, or use a local guide).

Let me know in the comments below if you have any other tips 🙂 

More inspiration for your green vacation:

• Best Travel Apps for Exploring Sustainably
• 15 Travel Books to Inspire Your Next Eco-Adventure
• Best Ecotourism Activities Around the World

Eco-friendly gear you might love:

• 10 Best Sustainable Backpacks for Travel & Hiking
• 10 Best Reusable & Eco-Friendly Travel Mugs
• 8 Best Filtered Water Bottles for Travel & Hiking

Check out this page for more inspiration on eco-friendly products & gear.

Norway travel planning guide

🚑 Should I buy travel insurance to travel to Norway?
Yes, buying insurance is always valuable when travelling abroad. Enjoy your Norway trip stress-free with one of my favourite providers, Nomad Insurance.

💧 Can you drink the water in Norway?
Yes, tap water is safe to drink all over Norway. However, I recommend travelling with the UltraPress Purifier Bottle, a lightweight filtered water bottle perfect for reducing plastic and staying hydrated.

🚗 Is it easy to rent a car in Norway?
Yes, renting a car in Norway is easy and is a great way to explore the country freely. I recommend booking yours with Rentalcars.com – they offer a variety of operators for all budgets.

🏨 How to book accommodation in Norway?
The best way to book your accommodation in Norway is with Booking.com – my favourite platform to compare and reserve places to stay each night, from affordable to luxury.

✈️ What is the best site to buy a flight to Norway?
I recommend booking your plane with Skyscanner. It has been my favourite platform for years, as it allows me to book the cheapest flights whilst lowering my carbon emissions.

Norwegian Fjords Cruise – FAQ

Have you ever experienced a Norwegian Fjords cruise or would you like to try one day? 
Let me know in the comments below!

With love ♡
Lucie